This is what we were looking for!!!

 

Ciao!

(Note:  I am going to post this for today, with pictures of food and scenery and the museum, and then post a second today with just the photos from the tombs!)

View from the rooftop!

...in the other direction!

Did I say I like poppies?

Just incredible!

They also make me smile!

Coming over the hill toward Tarquinia!

Old but not ancient city aqueduct

VERY old urns

Love Tarquinia!

Central courtyard of Museum

Love this guy!

This looks very Mesopotamian to me!

Love those lions!

Stunning horses from a temple frieze

Lots of pottery!

She is beautiful!

From the Museum's loggia

At Bacco Per Bacco in Tarquinia

R's carpaccio

My bruschetta

My pasta with truffles

R's ravioli with fresh tomato sauce

View from top of Tarquinian wall!

Up this morning around 6:00 to another sunny day.  We had some wonderful salami and cheese for breakfast, and I now need to find something on which to put the wonderful Gorgonzola in the fridge!  (The Tiger store around the corner is open for a bit on Sunday; need to take a look!)

Then, out about 7:30 and heading to Tarquinia to see their Necropolis and museum.  We were the first people arriving (surprise!) and much to our surprise, found a very different kind of site than yesterday at Cerveteri!  To say this place is incredible would be an understatement.  To say “awe-inspiring” would be a little closer.  This is truly the Etruscan site we’ve been wanting to see.

First of all, the tombs, dating from the mid-600’s through the mid-500’s BC were not nearly as close together as at Cerveteri, and for the most part, they were single passage chamber tombs.  (Several were double chambers, but none had more than two.)  Each tomb was protected individually, with a modern brick and motor covering as well as a very strong metal door with a lock.  Truly, it was wonderful to see the steps that have been taken to protect this wonderful part of Italian heritage.  The very best thing, though, was that each one of the tombs was actually painted – decorated with multiple frescos that somehow have lasted through time.  (Many of the tombs were not discovered until the late 1950’s and early 1960’s, which certainly helps the painting stay fresh.  There had been, however, the occasional tomb robbers that left quite a mess behind them!) 

We paid for entry and then we both got truly wonderful audio guides (SO much better than Cerveteri!) to follow.  The very best thing, though, is that we had each of the 20 or so tombs totally to ourselves for the entire morning!  (There were three people who we saw occasionally near to us, but having each tomb for the two of us was fabulous!)  There were also several tour groups arriving as we were just about finished – truly, this was quite incredible.  Now to be honest, I’m thinking we’ll probably both be sore tomorrow, as each of these tombs was down a fairly steep flight of steps – which meant both down and back up – but a small price to pay, as these were truly meaningful places.  

We would get down the very dark flight of steps where there was a door with a glass window installed. Then, you would find the button to illuminate the tomb – and all I can say is:  Wow!  Suddenly, these areas were illuminated to show up the incredible reds and blues, greens and whites of the various paintings.  For the most part, we have read that Etruscan tombs of the oldest period were full of light and life and joy; dancing, musical entertainment as well as sporting competitions.  Then, as time went along and there was the ever-growing threat of the Romans, the paintings became much more somber and depressed.  Fortunately, today was more of the former than the latter – I would happily deal with joy any day!  

Robert took a lot of photos, and I have to admit, that with the sun and warmth of the spring day, it got VERY hot and sweaty in those tombs! (Just another reason why I am SO happy we had the place to ourselves!  If there were people crowding the stairs, it would have been intolerable!) I usually don’t have too much of a problem with humidity, but when I got down into one of the last tombs and found that my glasses had FOGGED UP – wow, that is humid!  

After the last tomb, we returned to the little snack bar and I enjoyed a Magnum Classic and we both enjoyed some cold water!  It felt REALLYgreat to sit down and cool off for a few minutes.  (The wonders of a beautiful breeze and evaporative cooling!)

From the necropolis, we then headed into Tarquinia to visit their Etruscan Museum – which was great!  Tarquinia is a really attractive small hill-top town, and even being a Sunday, we were able to find a parking place somewhere near the wall.  From there, we followed the signage into the main town square and the museum.  Here, in an old Palazzo, were three floors full of many artifacts from the necropolis just outside of town as well as other nearby Etruscan sites.  Very enjoyable!

One thing that impresses us is the cultural link between the Etruscans and the Greeks.  Greek-style art and pottery is everywhere, made either by local artisans who picked up the Greek styles or Greek craftsman who migrated here, many to escape the Persians in the homeland.  Why this should be surprising, we don’t know.  Perhaps we didn’t think these connections could be made over such distances in those days but why not?  The ancient world seems to be much more modern than we thought.

By the time we finished, it was near 1:00 and definitely time for lunch.  So, right across the square was a small-ish place that looked open, so in we went.  Excellent! For starters, R had carpaccio with parmeasan and truffles (which smelled heavenly, and he loved!)  I had their bruschetta, which was good but not great (no truffles).  For mains, R had their ravioli with a fresh chopped tomato sauce, and I had their tagliatelli with parmesan cheese and truffles … delicious! I probably shouldn’t admit that we both ate all of our pasta, but we did.  It was wonderful!  And, I had just enough room left over to have some gelato for dessert!  We are definitely through with food for the day!

Then, back to Viterbo via some wonderful untraveled back roads. We had a bit of rain (or some very large rain drops) on the way back, and it certainly looks black enough outside now, but so far – knock wood! – rain has held off!  We are definitely in for the day!

In the spirit of following Italian museums and sites, most of which are closed on Monday, we will be sticking closer to Viterbo tomorrow and taking the day off.  (R thinks that doing that once a week is a great idea!)  Viterbo is an interesting looking city with HUGE city walls that we don’t know too much about. I have also decided that in the spirit of research, I will take the plunge and visit the local H & M store here in town.  (Now I have never been inside an H & M and have no idea what to expect, but if some of my more sartorially inclined friends would let me know if it’s worth a visit, I’d certainly appreciate it!)

So, more later!

m

xxx