It’s SO good to be home!

 

Hello!

We made it!  Although for a while, we weren’t sure our luggage would be joining us!

To recap:  Up about 5 am on Friday and down to breakfast about 7:30 am to the Hilton’s lovely downstairs buffet (free for us!).  Excellent choices, and we were both happy.  Then, about 8 am we checked out and headed to the airport – which was, seriously, at the end of a very long (and warm) hallway.  Found the Norwegian Air desk and checked in with no problems.  In fact, we were basically done with check-in, security and customs by 8:30 am.  (SUCH a dramatic departure as compared to entering Italy in the first place!) Not too long to wait, and on to the plane.  This time, as opposed to our trip over, it seemed like every single seat was filled. There were a lotof people.  I am happy to report, however, that the bathrooms did NOT run out of T.P. like our first flight.

The flight was long: over 12 hours.  Robert expressed surprise at our route – straight up and a bit east, actually, through Italy and into Switzerland and then Germany.  In fact, we never even flew over French air space at all, and R is sure that added time to our voyage.  (Found out yesterday, as a matter of fact, that there was a French air controllers strike, which now explains all!  So glad we were in Italy, as thousands of European flights were cancelled!)  

Basically the same movies, so nothing new there, although I am not sure how many more times I can watch the Journey to Mysterious Island, even though I like Michael Caine and DeWayne Johnson…

LAX was very much in the midst of a “June Gloom” kind of day – very unattractive, especially as we have spent so much time looking at lovely blue skies!  Our first bag came out as scheduled, and then the fun began.  As we came into Bradley, the International terminal at LAX, it seems that there was no one in charge, and only one of our bags came out!  Turns out that there were a whole lot of other passengers in the same boat!  We asked … we waited … we listened to announcements – nothing!  Very unsettling!  Especially as when we asked where to file a claim, we were told that that didn’t happen there!  And no luggage would be forwarded if we tried to make our Phoenix flight!  What??!! Finally, we were told that there had been a “mechanical” problem and the luggage was coming … but no idea when! Very unhappy group!  Probably an hour or so later, luggage began to appear at their “oversize” counter.  Ultimately, the bag did arrive – quite literally probably the second to the last pulled off.  GRRRR…… 

Then we piled the luggage on a cart and decided to walk the distance from Bradley to Terminal 1, which is Southwest.  They are having their area totally renovated, and seriously, we were able to get out boarding passes and check our bags with no lines at all! With the TSA-Precheck line, we also walked almost straight through into the terminal.  As a result of so much time spent looking for our first bag, we didn’t have too long to wait for our Phoenix flight.  On board, and in 57 minutes we were arriving in 104 degree Phoenix!  Down to baggage – and AGAIN!  All the bags are on the luggage belt, and the sign says “Bags Delivered” – and one of ours was missing – the same poor bag that got lost at LAX!  Incredible!  Robert was dealing with the Southwest staff (and they actually had an office) when they sent me to check their “oversize” baggage area.  It wasn’t there, but as I was walking back toward our original carousel, I spotted it mixed in with the next plane’s luggage!  INCREDIBLE!  So! Fully reunited with all of our belongings, we picked up our rental car and headed home!  Arrived here finally after a very long day, around 11:15 pm. Whew!  Very long day indeed!

So!  That’s about it!  Thank you so much for coming along with us!  We have very much appreciated receiving your comments and emails! Nothing more coming until next year’s trip to Portugal and Northern Spain!!

Lots of love!

m

xxx

We’re Back to the Beginning!

 

Ciao!

We have officially completed “the circle!” – Into Rome back in May and now back to the airport for home. But to begin at this morning…

First of all, as we always like to be early, we were up at 5 and ready to leave for the port in Bastia by 5:45 am – this for an 8:30 ferry to Livorno.  Needless to say, the port was really officially “closed” and there were no ferry listings on the board, so we had no idea where to go.  So, hung out illegally parked in front of the ferry terminal for about an hour.  Then, voila!  Our Corsica Ferries ship showed up – a different one from the one that brought us over.  This one actually was announcing that there were cabins available if anyone wanted to rent one!  Needless to say, I did!  So, we got some croissants and cheese/ham/salami for breakfast, and then I got us cabin 128.  Lovely exterior cabin with a view (porthole).  Two nice, clean beds and our own bathroom.  SO wonderful!  For almost four hours, we got to nap, read and charge up electronics without having to listen to anything at all – no kids, no barking dogs, etc.  With about half an hour to go, we were asked to leave the cabins (so the staff could clean and get them ready for the next sailing).  Actually, this ship was nowhere even near full, and by 12:30 pm we were pulling off the ship and onto the Autostrada.  

Our cabin with a view!

Robert loved the blankets!

And a shower even!

A boat ?! in the harbor!

It was a 3½ hour drive from Livorno to Fiumicino airport, and it went quickly.  Summer has really arrived in Europe, and we saw some wonderful thunderheads in the distance, but managed to avoid any rain at all – but it was up to 31 degrees, which translates to 88 and very muggy! We managed to fill the car up at an automatic gas station and then zoomed into the airport.  

There is a Hilton Rome Airport, and seriously, it is conveniently actually attached to the airport, not just nearby!  Robert checked in and dropped the luggage in our room, and then came back down and we drove the (literally) 100 feet to the rental car check-in.  As usual here, there wasn’t nearly enough room for incoming cars to park, but I found a space that worked (which meant that nobody yelled at me!) and left our cute little Lancia Ypilson.  It was a very good little vehicle!  

Hot and sweaty by the time we arrived back at the hotel, but seriously – we walked in, and it was chaos-free, and lovely and cool!  Yeah!!! Up in our room, we both showered to wash off the travel schmutz, and then enjoyed a glass of wine and some munchies in the Executive Lounge.  (Again, Hilary, thank you SO much for that fabulous advice about hotels!)  They have two restaurants in the hotel, but the menus were not very extensive.  R ordered a pizza which was really poorly done (considering where we are!) and I had a very good chicken Cesar salad. Then back upstairs for the great repacking.

I can only say that Robert has done an amazing job.  I didn’t watch too closely how he does it, as I know I will be doing a lot of ironing when we get home – but everything fits and we are in great shape!  So, settling in with a lovely bottle of Montepulciano and watching the Argentina-Croatia World Cup game – which is actually available IN OUR ROOM!  Wow! What a concept!

So, folks – more later!

Lots of love,

m

xxx

Footnote: This is the close of a truly fabulous trip.  Thanks to Margaret’s research and planning, we certainly accomplished what we set out to do – to get a better understanding of the Etruscans.  But, in addition to the planned travels, we also had a great time just driving around the back roads of Tuscany.  And finding the stele statues was a very pleasant extra.  All along the way, our accommodations were great, again because of Margaret’s planning.  Travel – especially foreign travel – can be daunting and I know I could never put an expedition like this together the way Margaret does.  I believe I have always followed the first half of Newton’s First Law of Motion: “Bodies at rest stay at rest.”  Thanks, though, to Margaret who gets me moving and show me the world.  It is really great to have a personal tour guide!  - Robert  

Incredible Corsica!

 

Bonjour!

Up this morning at the usual time, and down to breakfast at 7:30.  However, the check-in time at our Bastia hotel is 4 pm and we don’t want to get there too early.  According to the GPS it will take us about 3½ hours to get there.  So, we read and rested and just “hung out” until about 10 am when we checked out of our lovely hotel.  As Robert says, we have certainly had the most incredible views this entire trip!  

As a note on the photos:  Because most of them are scenic, passing through a Corsican national park, there won't be much commentary!

Heading to Levie Museum

Menhir with sword!

Neolithic bowls

Original ax blade in modern wooden handle

La Dame de Bonifacio!  She's even older than me!

R's HUGE hamburger!

Our first stop this morning was in Levie, which we had planned on visiting yesterday and did no such thing.  This time we found the museum – a lovely modern building in a very old village, and there was even a school group there ahead of us!  The collection was mostly flora and fauna from the local area, but they did have one really good menhir with a sword carved across him (or her…) They also house La Dame de Bonifacio, a skeleton which apparently rivals Ötzi, as far as age goes.  Her skeleton has been dated to 6570 BC ±150 years, which makes her almost twice as old as Ötzi, if my calculations are correct!  (Ötzi, is dated to 3300 BC)  

From the museum about 11 am, we decided to start the drive to Bastia, and boy, were we in for a HUGE surprise!  I did so much research on ancient things that I guess my eyes were shut to anything and everything else!  

Turns out that the interior of Corsica is incredibly, truly, stunning – there were mountains with spires and walls of rock that rivaled Yosemite – and we knew nothing about it! Duh!  We just kept driving up and up and up – the weather got cooler and became crisp mountain air!  It was wonderful!  We finally hit the first major mountain pass, Col de Bavella, at 4,000 ft. which was packed with people everywhere.  There were cabins and homes as well as restaurants and shops; something for everyone!  People were biking, and hiking, and there were canoe and paddleboard trucks.  

There is a hiking route called the GR20 which crosses the entire island along a northwest-southeast axis, which attracts more than 17,000 hikers from all over the world annually. To say the countryside is incredible is an understatement.  We have traveled to many parts of the globe, but this was truly memorable. 

From the Col, we headed downhill to the coast, and joined up with the sea route about 50 km south of Aleria, where we stayed on Friday.  From then on, it was pedal-to-the-metal to get to Bastia, and we made it just about on time. Summer is definitely here now (I know it really starts tomorrow) but apparently up until two weeks ago, it was cold and rainy, so people here are thrilled.  We’re just HOT! Into Bastia and down toward the port, and then up the hill and into the parking area of the Best Western Bastia Centre.  We are in room 2, which has marginally more room that Massa Maritema, but without the balcony and redeeming view!  Robert says I am just spoiled, and so I think I am.  Very small room, but at least here there are places to put things. Everything in from the car, as it’s so hot out, we don’t want to leave wine to cook.  So … thinking now about going out for a nice lunch, and I am craving hamburgers.  Did I tell you that there are NO – and I mean, absolutely NONE  – McDonald’s here on Corsica?  Heading back to the front desk to see if the nice gal that checked us in two hours early has any recommendations!  Other than that, we will use Tripadvisor, but we are both thinking Taxi as opposed to using the car. Finding parking space in town does not look like fun!  So!  On to food, and more later!

Lots of love,

m

xxx

Hello!

Back via taxi from downtown Bastia!  The walk down – about 15 minutes, was fine.  We were on the shady side of the street, and there was a nice breeze.  We finally did locate a place that 1) was open! And 2) did hamburgers.  Robert ordered a HUGE double double cheeseburger, and I ordered an ordinary one. It actually wasn’t bad at all! The only problem we had were the FLIES that are very aggressive here.  There is a large area on the port itself that is filled with open air restaurants – and all of them had the World Cup on TV!  Portugal, unfortunately, beat Morocco 1-0, and have advanced to the knock-out round.  Saudi Arabia is now playing Uruguay, with Uruguay leading 1-0, but again, nothing at the hotel…bummer!  I’m thinking we may want to go back down there tonight to see Spain play their match! Can NOTunderstand why the French TV channel isn’t broadcasting it! GRRRRR…Caught a cab back up the hill, and are now in our cozy little room which is wonderfully air conditioned, and R is napping from a busy day!

Tomorrow, our ferry leaves at 8:30 am back to Livorno, and from there, we will head straight south back to Fiumicino Airport and our overnight there before our return flight on Friday morning!  So!  More later!

Lots of love,

m

xxx

A Beautiful Day in Corsica!

 

Bonjour!

Last night, after I had posted, I noticed that we were having an ant attack in our room!  Now we have fought this battle in Tucson before – right about this time of year, actually, and our good friends Bob and Stew have actually taken care of the most recent assault for us – THANK YOU, GUYS!! But here in Corsica?  Added to that, the ants who are trying to get into our house in Tucson are teeny tiny little things – millions of them, but still small.  On the other hand, these Corsican ants must be weight lifters, they are so large. So, Robert went to the desk and brought the gal back to see them.  She said she’d be right back, and returned about 5 minutes later with a man with a spray can which looked very much like what our current spray guy, Todd, uses each month when he pays us a visit!  Only this time, the guy quite literally wanted to drown not only the ants, but everything else in the room!  And boy, did that smell!  My question to Robert was:  Will we wake up tomorrow morning?  He replied in the affirmative, but I have to tell you that last night we slept with the balcony window wide open – just to be able to breathe! Truly, it was disgusting!  But we did wake up this morning, just about on time, and the cleaning service today took care of any and all of the residue. 

Last night's sunset!

The port of Propriano with car ferry in the background

Lots of boats!

Me trying to figure out how to use the machines!

Just a little treat while watching soccer...

Again, hiding in the corner of sports bar to watch game!

R's fish which he loved!

My tomato and burrata salad!

Evening falling from our balcony!

Looking at Sartene from our balcony!

So … up this morning for breakfast at 7:30 am, and then we packed up the laundry to take it to the lovely Lavomat in Propriano.  (It is right in the marina and intended, I suppose, for the people who come into harbor on their yachts.) Last night when we were there, it was totally empty, and no machines were in use at all, so imagine my surprise when I walked in at 8:20 am (10 minutes before opening time!) and all four washers were FULL of clothes spinning around!  UGH! The shortest duration left was 24 minutes, so we sat down to wait for a machine.  I was thinking that maybe all four machines were used by the same person, but as I waited, three different people showed up for their clothes.  Of the three, only one person wanted to use a dryer, and as there were two dryers available, I figured we’d be all set. (So many Europeans think we Americans are weird and wasteful by insisting on using electricity to dry our clothes, rather than hanging them out the window or on a line!)  Wash was rather expensive, I thought, at 8€ per load (for the smaller machines); 12€per load for the one really large machine. Drying was 2€ per 10 minutes, and we needed 30 minutes to dry.  Feels so good to have all clean clothes (until tomorrow morning…) and now Robert has plenty of “unmentionables” to get home in!  

We stopped and picked up Euros (not because we necessarily needed them, but because the exchange rate is so good for us now, and we always like to come home with some) and stopped at the Carrefour grocery store for some cherries for Robert and water for both of us.  We were back to the hotel by about 11 am and I spent some time getting things organized.  Then a strange thing happened!  We looked at each other and Rasked the magic question:  Do we REALLY want to go to that museum now?  And honestly, the answer was NO, so instead of doing something we could photograph and write about, we spent the day on our balcony enjoying the view, the breeze and the down time!  And, of course, I’m feeling guilt about it! Oh well! [Note: Actually, we accomplished what we came for: A better much appreciation of the Etruscans, who have always been something of a mystery to us, and some idea of the early history of this part of the Mediterranean.]

I had looked at the television channel’s coverage of the World Cup games, and interestingly enough, they’re not televising any of the three games today!  How odd! So, about 5 pm this afternoon, we headed back to Propriano to watch some soccer matches (basically Senegal vs. Poland) at a sports bar, and have dinner somewhere in town.  

We had to try two different spots before we found one where we could manage the smoking issue. Seriously, I have no idea why it seems that everyone on this island smokes!  Young people, older people – even people pushing babies in strollers! I’d just like to SHAKE them!  And what makes it even worse here in Corsica is that while there are often restaurants attached to the sports bar section, many of them are open to the air entirely, and you just can’t get away from it!  In fact, with the place we went for dinner, it certainly didn’t help that the young 20-something waiter who helped us was standing in the doorway – SMOKING!  I just wanted to yell:  STOP IT! (I consumed a total of 2 Coke Zero’s and Robert had 3 glasses of biére and was floating…)

So, first the soccer results.  Senegal defeated Poland by the score of 2-1 – and seriously, it wasn’t even that close a game!  The second goal conceded by Poland was when the Polish keeper basically got caught almost at the center-line of the field and couldn’t get back fast enough to do his job.  We were SO happy for the Senegal fans; we were definitely rooting for them!  (Might as well, as the U.S. and my other favorite team, Italy, both failed to qualify this time!)

The timing worked out really well, as the game ended just when the restaurant, Mani, opened.  It was highly recommended by TripAdvisor, and was very close to our sports bar – how convenient!  We were, of course, the first people there, and took a table by the door.  I just have to remember in future that that isn’t necessarily a good spot to avoid smoking. Then came the menus.  Interesting.  I’ve never heard of an octopus burger, have you?  So, shunning octopus, fish and pork belly, I ended up ordering their tomato with burrata salad, which was not only lovely to look at, but tasted wonderfully.  Robert, at my suggestion, ordered the Umbrina, which is a Mediterranean fish of the Croaker family, and a green salad.  The fish came on a bed of very thinly sliced carrot and courgette (zucchini) with ginger – and the best thing was that he didn’t even have to bone it himself.  He said everything was delicious, and devoured every bite.  (The poor guy hasn’t been eating too well lately, as I’ve been rather off my feed…)  He ordered a split of a local white wine that was excellent, and I had sparkling water.  (I am definitely no fun at all!)  

Finished about 8:15 pm and then back to Sartene.  Tomorrow we pack everything up (except the ants…) and head back north, towards Bastia to catch the ferry back to Livorno on Thursday morning.  

I do have a few observations (interesting or otherwise) to make about what we’ve found on Corsica. First of all, again, everyone seems to smoke.  The cigarette packages all say, in very large black lettering Fumer Tue – which means SMOKING KILLS – but apparently that’s not discouraging enough! Also, a rather interesting observation – women here, regardless of age, all seem to wear shorts and flip flops, and love doing it!  It seems in Tucson “women of a certain age” all wear pedal pushers or high water pants, which is Robert’s description of them.  Everyone here looks so casual and comfortable and happy to be that way!  I found that surprising – and definitely felt over-dressed in my tennis shoes!  Also, there is lots to do when you’re not seeing museums and prehistoric sites here. Lots of different water options – different cruises to sign up for, heading different places.  Really wish we had discovered it earlier, then we might have gone that route rather than reading books.  However, be that as it may, we have very much enjoyed Corsica in spite of their incredibly aggressive drivers!  So!

More tomorrow!

m

xxx

We made it to the Sartene Museum!

Bonjour!

I am definitely feeling better than yesterday afternoon.  Robert thinks that I may just have run out of gas.  I do have to admit that, while neither of us has hit the “turn around and head home” point, we are looking forward to a slightly less frantic pace for a while.  When we got back to the hotel yesterday afternoon, I basically went right to bed and stayed there through most of the evening.  Robert was absolutely wonderful about fending for himself, for which I am well and truly thankful.  The hotel doesn’t have a restaurant, but they do put salads and charcuterie together with excellent French bread.  I did sleep through the night, which was wonderful, and awoke this morning feeling better but not completely out of the woods.  

Stunning prehistoric pot!

Tiny statue

Large bowl

Even larger pot!

Menhir

Liked this one with weapon!

Looks like a belt to me!

This one's mouth is open!

Robert loved this ancient knife!

Also, TF1 French television channel is broadcasting select World Cup games, so we got to watch two good ones last night.  The first – Germany vs. Mexico was fantastic – and Mexico knocked off Germany 1 – 0 for the biggest upset of the tournament to date.  Then, following that match, we saw Switzerland play the power house Brazil team – and Switzerland tied the game in the second half, and the Brazilians were SO surprised!  Tonight, it looks like we have only one game – England vs. Tunisia.  I have no idea how the matches are selected, and I do have to admit that I am looking forward to being able to watch ALL the matches when we get home!

Up this morning about 7 am and down to breakfast about 7:30. We were the only folks in the breakfast room, and the hotel seemed deserted – a big difference from yesterday when we had a big tour group in for the night.  Rested a bit as the Sartene Museum of Prehistory opens at 10, and that was our plan for today.  

Very, very nice museum, even though every word was in French.  Fortunately, thanks to Bob LaCasce and Robert, we can now Google translate words, which helps a great deal.  The museum has a very interesting assortment of flora and fauna of the area, and then begins really with the prehistoric and moves through the Neolithic and bronze ages. They also had several very interesting menhirs.  I just love those faces!  Spent an hour or so in the museum and then decided to head back to the hotel for another nap (for me!).  It truly is a beautiful day to sit and enjoy the sunshine on our balcony which is perched high in the air, a long way from the road below.  

Oh, one other thing we did was look to see if there is a lavanderie (laundry) here in Sartene. We saw one yesterday, which was closed, so wanted to take a look today to see if it will serve our purposes. And, unfortunately, it won’t – not a do-it-yourself laundromat.  So, we will head to Proprianoin a bit to get some dinner there, and we have the address to what looks like from the photos on line to be a real laundromat!  Yippee!!  We have more things to see tomorrow, but first I want to get our laundry done.  That will take us through the end of the trip and back home, I am happy to report! 

Our schedule for the next couple of days includes tonight and tomorrow night here in Sartene, then moving on Wednesday night to Bastia, where we will catch the Corsica Ferry back to Livornoon Thursday morning.  From there, it will be pedal-to-the-metal-Commander back to Rome’s Fiumicino airport and our flight on Friday morning! Just hope we’ll be able to manage to get everything packed … I have warned Robert that he will most likely be called on to perform his regular miracles with stuff and suitcases!  That man is a demon packer, for sure!  (I’m pretty good, but when things are getting full, I turn it over to him!)  

Well, that’s about all for now!  More later!

m

xxx

Back from Propriano, the closest beach town to Sartene, about 9 km away.  Unfortunately, we went there looking for food about 5 pm – and nothing, and I mean NOTHING was open then – come back at 7 pm!  So, as it turns out, many of the outdoor bars and restaurants (and there were quite a few) are carrying all the World Cup soccer games, so we got to watch Belgium beat Panama, 3 – 0 while we waited for 7 o’clock to come around.  When it did, we got two Margarita Pizzas (tomato sauce and cheese) to go and drove back to the hotel about 10 minutes before the England-Tunisia game started.  We were also able to find the Lavomatic laundry, which is right on the waterfront, and looks really nice.  The proof will be tomorrow, when we head back there with our load of laundry.  (England just scored, and Tunisia’s goalkeeper has been replaced, and we’ve just started the game!) 

Last thing – which I thought was wonderful!  Yesterday’s heading was something like “looking for menhirs” – and friend Kathy Spiller sent the following:  What’s with that?  Aren’t there any WOMENhirs?  And she’s right!  We’ll definitely have to keep our eyes open!

More tomorrow,

m

xxx

Looking for Menhirs

Bon Jour –

Robert here.  My turn to write the blog, as Margaret deserves a break.  (Actually, M is a bit under the weather, and spent the afternoon sleeping!  Doing a bit better now!)  

Wall at Filitosa

Rock shelter from the Neolithic

Doesn't look waterproof to me...

The first real menhirs with a carved face!

Loved this one in particular!

That's a great face!

Three standing at the rock shelter

Sitting down on the job...

West monument; it's huge!

Around the back is a storage room

Ancient doorway!

Five standing menhirs.

These things fascinate me!

Wall of the rock shelter

Local traffic jam!

Awoke at about 6:00 to a rather cool morning, with clouds hanging on the mountains.  At about 7:30, we went down for our buffet breakfast – hot chocolate, orange juice, croissant, cheese and ham for Margaret; coffee, juice, baguette, cheese and fruit for me.  Then off on our exploration.

The first thing was to check the location of the local laundromat – only about 50 m away.  Closed on Sunday (of course) but we didn’t plan on doing laundry today, just a reconnaissance to see when the place was open.  That done, on to our goal for today – Filitosa– about 30 km north of Sartene.

Filitosa is a megalithic site first occupied in about 3300 BC. The menhirs, however, date from around 1500 BC.  The guess is that they were built to scare off the invading Torréens but apparently, it didn’t work, since the menhirs were knocked over, some broken and even used as building material in Torréen construction.

The site was discovered in 1946 by the land owner and systematic excavation began in 1955.  The menhirs – most statue menhirs, actually, because they are sculpted in low relief – have been set up about the site.  There is also a Torréen castello, not thought to be a fort or a dwelling but rather a ceremonial building.  But who knows?  One disappointment was to see that one of the largest menhirs on the site is a replica of the original that is stored in a warehouse– not even in a nearby museum!  Bummer.  Didn’t bother to photograph the copy.  Maybe this is pure snobbishness but seeing a copy does not have the same impact as seeing the original.  Kind of like the decorated caves in the Dordogne and the north of Spain, where you know you are standing in the spot where someone stood thousands of years ago.

We are, I think, just about saturated by site visits and will probably focus on local museums for the most part from here on.  It seems that most of the sites here are not well developed or, for that matter, protected. Also, they are hard to find and often are quite a trek from the road – uphill, of course!

So, back to the hotel for some much-needed rest.

Cheers,

Robert