Moving on from Viterbo!

(NOTE: Pictures included!  Yeah!)
m
xxx

Ciao!

Up this morning about 7:00, as this is our departure day from Viterbo.  We really enjoyed both the apartment and the city itself. 

Heading to the lake!

Lago Vico is quite lovely!

Everything was close by, and the Tigre market was really good.  We went downstairs about 9:00 am and across the piazza to get some breakfast.  One more time for the warm chocolate pudding – oh, I forgot!  My hot chocolate and R’s Café Americano.  We both had croissants as well as glasses of blood orange juice.  We will miss our little café; so good and so convenient!

Lago Vico

Rows of cedars that R liked!

Orvieto -- on top of the hill!

View of Duomo from one of our windows!

Duomo from the side

Front facade of Duomo 

Finally, out about 10:30 am to get the car.  Now remember, there is a “no cars” rule on many of the streets in the old part of the city, including the one to our apartment, from 8:30 – 1:00 pm, and then 4:00 – 8:00 pm … so, as Robert pointed out, only about half the normal cars were there.  At any rate, we were able to get down the main street and to the piazza next to the flat. Parked the car next to the big statue and went up to get our suitcases.  Said goodbye to our lovely apartment, and down we went.  Loaded everything up, and one more time back up the Corso and out the town gate. As we had a lot of time before we could check in to our next hotel, we decided to detour around Lago Vico, as we had enjoyed Bolsena so much yesterday.  Lago Vico is much smaller than Bolsena, but it is also a lovely, volcanic lake.  Nice drive!

Beautiful side altar

Our bruschetta

My torta of grilled veggies

R's tortellini

R's "cafe Americano" -- right!

Inside of Duomo

Amazing columns

Ceiling of the main altar

Great organ!

Love the ceilings!

Then we headed the car to Orvieto, taking back roads rather than the autostrada.  Now the important thing to remember about Orvieto is that it was an original Etruscan city – and it is on the very TOP of a defensible hill.  But, of course, that means that the streets are like a rabbit warren and my Italian is not exactly up to par when it comes to quickly reading traffic or parking instructions.  So, we generally have to improvise!

The last time we were here (same hotel) I distinctly remember being able to bring the car right up and park in front.  That was, however, something like 15 years ago, and this time was much different! Finally, in absolute frustration, I pulled over at a piazza and Robert very bravely headed out to find out where the supposed “private parking” lot was located.  And truthfully, I wasn’t sure if I was ever going to see him again!!

It took about half an hour for him to come back but this time he was armed with a street map of the city and instructions on how to find the elusive hotel!  So … on we went!  Have to admit, I was certainly happy to see him!  Once around the huge Duomo (the Duomo is the name for an Italian Cathedral) and left the car for one of the guys at the hotel.  Down 10 or 12 steps, and around the corner, voila, Hotel Duomo!  Our hotel guy somehow magically pulled up in front of the hotel just a few minutes later, and we were able to unload our luggage.  Our room, junior suite 212, I think is the same one we had years ago!  At any rate, lots of room, and it’s very comfortable.  Also, a multiplicity of television channels in lots of different languages – just hope I can find some sports to watch!  

We settled into our room, R got the computer set up, and then we headed out to get some lunch, as it was going on 2 pm and we were hungry.  Lots of touristy places in the area, with lots of lovely terraces.  Our problem always is with smoke – seriously, I think more Italians (especially the young, 20-somethings) smoke than Turks, and I thought that was hard to beat!  That is one of the reasons we try very hard to get into a restaurant early – to avoid it; the locals generally eat later than we do!  Now that smoking inside isn’t as prevalent, we will often opt to eat inrather than on the terrace, which always surprises restaurant owners.  In this case, there was a nice place with an inside dining room, and only three other guys there!  It was great, and we loved it!  We ordered bruschettawith tomatoes to start – and seriously, is there anything much better than freshly sliced “real” tomatoes with a bit of salt and some arugula and olive oil?  Answer:  NO, not really!  R ordered tortellini with a pancetta sauce (he loved the pasta, the pancetta not so much) and I ordered a torta – it was a panini with grilled vegetables and cheese – yummy!  As it turns out, one of the waitresses was having her lunch at the same time and turned on their big-screen TV to the start of the Giro d’Italia.  We loved it, and when she finished, asked her to just leave it on – gorgeous picture!  

Today, stage 19 (only 2 more days to go) Chris Froome attacked about 80 miles from the end, and literally road the cycling shorts off the entire competition!  He made up something like 14 minutes on the leader and emerged from the day with the Maglia Rosa (Pink jersey) as the new leader of the race – it was great!  I’m saying that because after lunch, we went first into the Duomo and then did a little walking around, and then retired back to the hotel to take naps … and watch the end of the race!

The Duomo is superb.  First of all, it’s entirely striped – alternating bands of dark (black) basalt and white travertine stone, and on the front of the cathedral are some wonderful Trees of Life sculptures. Inside, it is rather bare in places, but there are some of the most beautiful ceilings we have seen anywhere. The colors of the paintings, glass, mosaics and frescos are incredible!  

We are thinking about dinner in about an hour or so.  Tomorrow our plan is to explore Orvieto. They have several underground tours – seriously, we are going to take one.  There are also two necropoli near here, one on each side of the city, and I am sure there is also a museum to see!

So, more later!

m

xxx